Touring North India: Delhi

We spent our last day in north India touring old Delhi (neighboring New Delhi is the modern seat of India’s government). This ancient city is fascinating for the sense of time and history and the many peoples and events that shaped India through the centuries. We especially enjoyed the old markets as we toured them in pedal rickshaws. Cars cannot fit in the narrow streets and alleys so the little rickshaws are the only option to walking. Our driver (peddler?) had enough English to provide some basic insight into the history. Terrorists bombed five markets the week before our visit but we saw no evidence and we didn’t feel threatened in the hustle and bustle of the busy day. I guess we wouldn’t think about it unless something actually happened.

The rickshaws are not really made for tall people but we got by just fine. We chose one with a cover because it looked like it would rain. Our driver asked me, “You have marriage?” I said, “Yes.” He asked, “How many wives?” (Vickie interjected, “What?!”) I replied, “One.” Said he, “Only one?” “Yes, only one.” Interesting question.


Here we are with the Karl and Amy Kirby family on a rooftop above the markets that also looked down on the courtyard of a mosque. From the left are Emily Bush, Gabriel Bush, Amy Bush Kirby with Gideon, Zakia Kirby, Karl, part of Kaleolani, and two unidentified tourists. Karl is serving as Rising Star’s resident doctor and medical outreach director for the year and we really enjoy their young family. Emily left for America on September 25 after two months of excellent volunteer service, and Gabe will be with us for the next few months. Volunteers do everything from handling building projects in the colonies and assisting the mobile medical crew to teaching English and running after-school programs for the kiddles.


Our guide knew enough people to get us access to the rooftops in the market area. This photo shows worshippers completing their ritual washing at the mosque before praying. It was interesting to hear the call for Muslim prayer broadcast from the tall minarets during the day. India is about 81% Hindu, 13% Muslim, 2% Sikh, 2% Christian, and 2% other, including Jain and Parsi.


Another option for travel in north India. Most of the camels we saw were pulling heavy loads, but we did see a couple of places advertising rides. Funny looking critters, aren’t they? But they have certainly fulfilled important roles in desert lands and Asian cultures. The script on the sign is Hindi, India’s official language and the tongue of about 60% of the citizens. Very different from the Tamil cursive with its 247 letters (we have enough trouble with 26). English is considered the associate official language in this nation that speaks dozens.


Vickie looking down on the inner courts of the spice market. The shops and buildings look much as they did at the founding of the British East India Company in the 18^th century, and they don’t appear to have been cleaned since.


Here they are, folks; raw spices. Talk about launching a thousand ships—these little treasures were the whole reason behind the Age of Exploration and the battles for trade routes and rights through the centuries. The spice market was fascinating, but it nearly overwhelmed our tender olfactory senses.


And off we go through the narrow streets. The shops seem to specialize in one or two things. In the garment district we saw shelves stacked to the ceiling with bags of sequins or displaying one type of necklace. We really enjoyed our morning in a working market instead of visiting another bazaar meant mostly for tourists.

Touring North India: Jaipur

Jaipur was the capital of the ancient Mughal empire that introduced Islam to India. It is hilly country which makes a refreshing change from flat Tamil Nadu. Much of the architecture reminds one of Persia and Arabia.

About 350 years ago the king in Jaipur built an amazingly accurate observatory complex. It includes large outdoor star maps, moon dials, astrology globes, and this, the world’s largest sundial, accurate to within two seconds. They even knew how many minutes to add or subtract for the time in other parts of India at different times of the year.

The City palace was home to the kings and this part is still occupied by the descendents of the royal family. The tour included a textile exhibit displaying clothing and costumes, with paintings showing the royals who wore them. It also included an armory tour with every sort of weapon that could be imagined for inflicting the wounds of death insomuch that the enemy would become extinct.

Here you see the entrance to the inner courtyard flanked by stone elephants, guards in period costume, and two perky tourists. The floral designs are made with semiprecious stones set in marble, a la the Taj Mahal. Very beautiful craftsmanship. The state of Rajastan and its capital Jaipur are heavily influenced by Turkish and Persian architecture, the result of centuries of Aryan and Turkish invasion and rule. Did you know that “Iran” is a derivation of the word “Aryan?"

Does the man in the red turban have enough charm to pull this off? When I asked about the danger the man said, “No poison.” When I asked about getting bit he said, “Teeth broken out.” It is so difficult to find a manly cobra in its prime these days (except on Rising Star property). On the left is Gabriel Bush, Amy Kirby’s brother, who is volunteering at RSO for several months. A great kid, served his mission in Salvador, Brazil. Any matchmakers out there?

Our second day in Jaipur began with a lurching elephant ride up to the Amber Palace. The elephants make five trips up and back each morning and then they are done for the day. They can also be rented for weddings and festival processions and such. We were greeted by drums and herald trumpets upon entering the palace courtyard, as befits people of our stature. Notice the walls and guard towers on the surrounding hills.

The original old palace and fort can be seen on the hills behind us. The newer palace was built lower down to ease access and to be closer to water. The entire complex has a well-engineered series of cisterns under the courtyards for capturing and storing rain water. Unfortunately, there was never enough water, so the place was abandoned in 1727 and the capital moved a few kilometers to the City Palace in Jaipur.

This “Water Palace” is actually a mosque built to be surrounded by the lake. We visited near the end of the northern monsoon season and it looks like they had a little more rain than was originally planned. All of the stone for the forts, palaces, and mosques was quarried locally through the centuries, as are many of the semi-precious stones used for the art work. Jaipur’s local specialty is garnets.

Jaipur also boasts beautiful textiles. Vickie chose the silk for this new outfit, got measured by the tailor, and picked it up the next day. This north Indian version of traditional dress fits closely around the ankles, as opposed to the loosely fitting ones in the south. The tailor called it a “Punjabi” rather than chuttidhar, the term used in Tamil Nadu. I believe the Hindi term is salwaar kameez.